Coat Sewing 101

It’s that time of year – the days are getting shorter, temperatures are dropping, and the sewing blogosphere is turning to coat sewing.  Just in the last few weeks, Erika and Heather flashed their new coats and coat pattern, respectively, and Jenny made a fabulous trench.  My friends, it is coat making season.  Bring it on, winter.

Having made some coats myself and discovering a geeky love for tailoring, I wanted to pull together some past posts with information that you may find helpful for jumping into the world of coat sewing.  At first, I was overwhelmed with trying to compile information on making coats, since the majority of what’s out their is geared towards traditional suit tailoring.  Plus, a lot of the times patterns won’t tell you how to go about tailoring your coat to achieve a nice, professional look.  Tailoring = hidden engineering.

Gathering the Coat Supplies – these are all of the materials I used for my Yona Coat, pictured above.

Tailoring the Coat – this is a pretty lengthy post on how I went about tailoring my coat, from pad-stitching the lapel and taping the roll line all the way to creating special sleeve stays for the raglan sleeves and interlining my coat with flannel.

The Finished Coat – I learned some more as I made my way to the end of the coat and documented some of the changes in this post, such as choosing a different lining material.

If you’re not sure where to look for coating materials or supplies to make your coat, here are some great places to start:

Mood Fabrics – kind of a no-brainer.  They have a whole section devoted to coat fabrics
Britex – gorgeous wools, more on the pricey side but so beautiful (I pine for their fabrics)
B&J Fabrics – if you call them, they can send you swatches of Sunback Lining, one of the few places I found that carries this type of lining
Vogue Fabrics – they stock Thinsulate…I need to try this out in my next coat!  They also have flannel-backed lining fabric
Steinlauf and Stoller – I bought all of my interfacing from them when I was in NYC, but you can call them and order what you need over the phone

Click here to download a FREE Coat Supply Shopping List


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