2018Reader sewing survey
 

Well, hello there! It’s been a few years since I ran a reader survey, and I’d love to hear from you lovely peeps about your sewing habits, the types of things you like to make, and what challenges or frustrations you have when it comes to sewing. This will also help inform me on the types of things you’d like to see on Sew Wrong in 2018!

Take the 9 question, 5-minute survey here: 2018 Reader Sewing Survey

Thanks!
Lucinda

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sewwrong 2017 best nine
 

What a year it’s been! 2017 was a pretty solid year at chez Sew Wrong, not nearly as busy or crazy as 2016 and I’m completely ok with that. In reflecting back on sewing new garments for my wardrobe, this year consisted of sewing with a lot of blues, filling in some gaps with basics, and expanding my sewing and drafting skills with more challenging projects and some pattern-hacking. Here are some of my favorite highlights from the year:

 

Featured in Sew News and the Sew Daily Blog

Sew News Feature
 

LH-Post-FB-SD-size-
 

Butterick 6385 2
 

I was over the moon when Sew News asked me to write a post for their blog on my top tips for sewing coats! It was the perfect excuse to sew up something new to go along with the article, and I absolutely love my new coat from Butterick 6385.

 

International Fabric Shopping

me and the city
 

ribes y casal
 

ribes y casal fabric1
 

I took a new position with my company at the beginning of the year that involved traveling abroad, so when we had downtime in some cities, I squeezed in a bit of fabric shopping. I’ve never been to fabric stores in other countries before, so it was exciting to shop for different kinds of fabrics that I can’t find at home and see how different fabric shopping can be compared to the US. I found some beautiful fabrics in Barcelona and Madrid that I turned into a Saltspring Dress and Kochi Kimono, with two other fabrics waiting to be sewn up this coming spring.

 

More Coats, Please

polka dot coat
 

cascade coat
 

I continued to add to my ever-growing coat collection with some different styles, like the Cascade Duffle Coat and a polka dot coat from McCalls 7058. I truly love tailoring and sewing coats, and I learn more and more with each project. My best-to-date coat was the Oscar De La Renta coat at the top of this post!

I Made Pants!

Nagoya Pants
 

This one never made it to the blog (sometimes it’s just easier to post to Instagram), but I finally made a pair of pants that a) fit well, and b) I felt proud enough to wear to work. These are the Papercut Patterns Nagoya Pants, and they were a bugger to fit, but I stuck with it and made them work! It’s definitely not my best sewing effort, but the black linen-poly fabric hides a lot of my sewing sins. I feel like I say this at the end of/beginning of every year, but next year is going to be the year that I conquer pants and start sewing for my lower half!!

We’re having a very low-key evening at home tonight for NYE, I’m planning on cutting out a Style Arc Brooklyn Top and watching the ball drop with my husband and some prosecco – it’s just way too cold outside to go out tonight with the lows hitting -2. Hope you have a wonderful New Year, see you in 2018!

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boucle kochi kimono
 

One more Kochi Kimono to share before the year runs out! This time, out of a bright pink wool boucle.

 

boucle kochi kimono
 

Abby made a cozy-looking version that inspired me to try out this pattern in a boucle, and it does not disappoint. For this version, I cut out view 3 for a simple, loose jacket that slightly overlaps in the front.

 

boucle kochi kimono
 

The size small definitely feels oversized, but I like it this way. I mean, look at how large the back is! But for something woolly and cozy like this, I like how it fits.

 

boucle kochi kimono
 

This one came together even faster than the first version since there were no pockets or ties to sew. As a shortcut, I serged the edge of the neckband instead of turning under the raw edge, folded the band in half to the inside, and topstitched everything in place. All the edges were serged before stitching as well, to prevent any unravelling.

 

boucle kochi kimono
 

I’ll be wearing this a lot this winter, it’s a great layering piece! Just goes to show how a pattern can look so different in different types of fabrics.

Pattern: Kochi Kimono by Papercut Patterns
Fabric: wool boucle from Mood Fabrics

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floral kochi kimono
 

I guess I’ve been on a sewing tear lately! I like to keep a running list of patterns I want to sew by season, and I made just about everything I wanted to for “early” fall and the fall season (blogging about all of them is another story, hah). I had some tough classes this semester as well, but by taking just one at a time instead of doubling up (they were both accelerated, half-semester classes), I had much better work/school/life balance than in the past. Now, to enjoy the month off between semesters, ahhh….

Anywho, I wanted to share my first Kochi Kimono that I made a few weeks ago! The Sakura Collection released by Papercut Patterns earlier this year is full of fabulous designs and this is the second pattern I made from the collection (the first being a pair of un-blogged Nagoya pants).

 

floral kochi kimono
 

floral kochi kimono
 

For my first version of this pattern (the next one will be on here next week!), I cut out view A since I loved how the ties looked and the different ways you can wear this. In my experience, Papercut Patterns run on the large size, but I opted to cut a size small because I wanted that boxy, oversized look with this top – I think I got that! This top was super-easy and quick to make, but I was puzzled on the instructions for attaching the ties and couldn’t understand how the heck I was supposed to tie this with the way the ties are sewn on to the side seams, so I made them so that the ties tie inside on one side and outside on the other side. Maybe that’s what you’re supposed to do? Dunno, it was hard to tell from photos on their site and I just rolled with it, plus it ensures that the top stays in place and you don’t have to worry about constantly adjusting the underlap.

I also really like how you can wear this in two different ways. On the first day I wore this, I started the day off wearing it as you see above, crossed over like a kimono jacket. After going to the gym and changing, I switched to wearing it like I did in the very first picture of this post, just like a haori jacket I made waaaay back in high school in 2004.

 

floral kochi kimono
 

What makes this kimono top/jacket even more special is the fabric – I bought this in October during a work trip to Madrid. I originally planned on using this floral poly for some kind of dress, but once I got home and looked through my patterns, the Kochi Kimono and my new fabric just clicked together!

 

 

floral kochi kimono
 

Pattern: Kochi Kimono by Papercut Patterns
Fabric: poly crepe from Ribes y Casals (Madrid)

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Sezane-inspired Hadley Top
Sezane-inspired Hadley Top
 

Are you familiar with Sézane? They’re an independent French fashion brand that designs limited-run seasonal collections sold exclusively online, and I’m obsessed with them. Well, I mean, I love French style in general, so it wasn’t that much of a stretch! A lot of their designs make it to my inspiration boards on Pinterest, which is where the idea came to turn the Grainline Studio Hadley top into something similar from their 2016 collection:

 

sezane hadley inspo
 

Sezane-inspired Hadley Top
 

I made a lot of modifications to the Hadley pattern to get the look I was going for. First off, I raised the bust darts 1″ after tissue-fitting the pattern, which is a typical adjustment for me with bust darts. I then shortened the sleeves by cutting at the “lengthen/shorten here” line, figuring that point would give me a nice 3/4ish sleeve length. The last major pattern change was to cut the front for view A and combine it with the back for view B – I found on some blogs that it’s possible to pull the top over your head and gave it a try, plus the back of view B is less full than view A, and you’ll see why I wanted that plain back in a minute.

Fabric choice is really important for the pattern, definitely pick something with a nice drape that isn’t too stiff, otherwise you risk this top looking like a tent. I used a Rag & Bone poly crepe from Mood that I bought a bunch of, it’s got a great hand and I’m planning on using the rest of the yardage for a LBD.

 

Sezane-inspired Hadley Top
 

The ruffles are just long rectangles folded in half and gathered. For the neck, I basted the ruffle on around the neckline before attaching the facing. The ruffle easily stands up after the facings are tacked down at the center back, shoulders, and center front. For the sleeves, I sewed the ruffle to the sleeve edge right sides together, pressed the seam allowance towards the sleeves to make the ruffles flip down, and then top-stitched the seam in place at 1/4″ to ensure that the ruffle stayed in place.

 

 

Sezane-inspired Hadley Top
 

Just like on the Sézane top,  I purposely have a space between the beginning and end of the ruffle band. I found some ivory buttons in my stash and tacked them on down the center-back seam. I really wanted this detail and am so happy that I could use the back of view B to achieve this and still get the top over my head!

 

Sezane-inspired Hadley Top
 

Pattern:Hadley Top by Grainline Studio, via Indiesew
Fabric: Rag & Bone poly crepe from Mood Fabrics; ivory poly silk from my stash

 

This post is part of the Indiesew Blogger Network – pattern or fabric may have been provided by Indiesew, however all thoughts and opinions are my own 

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