Sew Wrong

Spring 2012 Collection – Vogue Patterns

It’s February 1 and the spring 2012 patterns are starting to arrive.  It feels like an early spring day today in Boston, but looking at the calendar, I’m certain that we will have many more winter-like days ahead of us, even into April.  It’s never too early to start planning your sewing for the next season (just ordered some fabric and patterns last week!), so here’s a peak at what I’m already planning to make this spring.

V1287 – Donna Karan
Maybe it’s the print that drew me in to this pattern, but it looks likes a lot of fun to make and wear.  The only thing I’m apprehensive about are those side pockets/bands – I’m not a fan of anything that draws attention to hips or makes them appear to be larger.  I’ll have to see this made up on some “real” sewers before I decide to take the plunge and sew this one.

V1294 – Anne Klein
Even though this top is not considered to be flattering to my body shape (I’ll be writing a post on that topic later), I love the design of the neck flounce and the tailoring of this blouse.  You could dress this up for work or dress it down with a pair of jeans for running errands.

V8784 – Very Easy Very Vogue
I’m determined to master the wrap-dress this year: I’ve never found one that fit my bust, either in RTW dresses or those sewn by myself.  It’s a style that I’ve given up on, but the skirt and the styling on this dress is adorable.  This just may be the dress that could work for me with a few tweaks.

 

V8787 – Vogue Easy Options
What a versatile dress pattern, I understand why it’s called “easy options!”  What I really like about this pattern is the above style in the peppermint-stripe fabric that is cut on the bias for the bodice and skirt but on the straight grain for the waist band.  It would be darling in a navy blue and white stripe double knit as well.

V8790 – Very Easy Very Vogue
So far three of the four patterns I’ve listed from this collection are dresses, which I have a weakness for in the warm months, but I really need to expand my sewn wardrobe and make more sportswear.  This pattern has a sleeveless, short sleeve, and long sleeve option, so it could transcend the spring season and be an all-year pattern with some changes in fabric.

V8792 – Vogue Easy Options
Again, it’s the striped fabric that drew me to this pattern.  It could be an interesting top to try mixing prints, a fashion trend for the spring, such as a large polka dot mixed with a small polka dot insert.  Or perhaps a contrasting color insert – there’s a couple of options to take what could be a boring long sleeve top to a higher fashion level.

V8791 – Custom Fit
This is another top that I’ll wait and see what other sewers come up with.  It has a cool, artsy vibe to it, and I’d style it with skinny cropped pants like on the model.  I prefer the tank and short sleeve style of this top, but I’m afraid of looking shapeless in a top like this.  Neat concept, but I’ll wait a little bit on this one.

A note to Vogue Patterns – I appreciate the attempt to style the pattern photos like in a fashion magazine, but don’t underestimate how important it is to get a clear, unobstructed view of the front and back of these patterns.  It makes it really hard to figure out how a dress or top will look on me if I’m standing up straight and facing front, such as these patterns here, here, and here.  I’m all for elevating sewing to another level, but I need a good idea of how a garment really looks before I invest my money and time into a project.  An illustration is not the same as a photo of a real person wearing clothes.  

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Pattern Review: Vogue 1020

Vogue 1020

Pattern: Vogue 1020, View C (OOP)
Size: 10 bodice graded to a 12 skirt
Fabric: Rayon jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics

I did the unthinkable.  I swore I’d never do it again.  But I did: I sewed a pattern that I already sewed three years ago and failed miserably at.  The reason? It fit terribly and I hated how I looked and felt wearing it.

So why in the world did I try it again?  This was the right fabric for it this time around.

Vogue 1020

1) The Fabric

I mean come on, this is a pretty funky fabric.  And I felt that the print was so crazy-wild, it would distract from any fit issues I had around my stomach.  I loved that the pattern layout created a bias across the bodice and then caused the print to straighten out at the skirt – this was a design element of the pattern that would be missed if I decided to use another plain knit this go-around.  The weight of the fabric was perfect for this dress too; it was lightweight but draped well and had the right amount of stretch to it.

Vogue 1020


2) Grading

I’ve learned over the years of sewing how my body is proportioned and what works and doesn’t work.  Learning from what I did before on this pattern, I didn’t cut a straight 12 – I cut a 10 for the top, guessed where the waist was (it’s really not clear on the pattern where the waist is located because of the side gathers…the left side is super long), and graded it out to a 12 to where I believed the hip started.  It worked much better this time and I ended up being a lot happier with the fit.

Vogue 1020


3) Construction

The directions were straightforward and I think I referred to them once or twice, but pretty much did things based on instinct.  I opted to use clear elastic at the shoulder seams and at the left gathered side seam instead of seam tape – much more RTW looking.  No zipper used either since this fabric is so stretchy it’s not necessary.  And thank you to whoever invented the twin stretch needle because for those of us who don’t own a serger, it’s a miracle.  I used it to hem the bottom of the dress and sleeves as well as the neckline, and it looks so much more professional than a regular straight stitch.

4) Proper Undergarments

Don’t get me wrong: this is still a really tight dress and I have to remember to not slouch when I’m wearing it.  But I found that wearing something underneath, like my DKNY Smoothies Leggings, really helped to smooth out my stomach and prevent bumps from my underwear from showing (I told you, it was a lightweight knit fabric!).  I wore them the first day I wore this dress, which was to give a presentation at Ignite Craft Boston, and it helped to control everything all day and I felt good.

Now that I’ve finally conquered this pattern, I’m looking forward to tackling that top again.

Updated: I’ve mentioned this particular pattern in a new blog post about Vogue’s “Figure Flattery” guidelines here.

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Review: Fiskars Desktop Scissors Sharpener

I’ve been meaning to try the Fiskars Desktop Scissors Sharpener after spotting it in the scissors aisle during a monthly trip to Joann Fabrics…you know, stocking up on supplies and stuff. I keep looking at new scissors since the ones I have are the worst to cut with, probably due to the fact that they need to be sharpened. It’s pretty bad when you can only use part of the blades for cutting a straight line, since if you use the whole blade, you’ll end up chewing up the fabric you’re trying to cut. And since it’s tough to get to a fabric store when they have a scissor sharpening event, I’ve been S.O.L. on sharp scissors for a long time. Cutting out pattern pieces is not-so-fun.
Now I don’t have the nicest, or most expensive scissors in the world, just plain ‘ol orange-handled Fiskars. I long for a pair of Gingher dressmaker shears like my mom has, but in the meantime, I use the Fiskars I got as part of my sewing basket for my 12th birthday. And let’s see, I’ve had those scissors for over 10 years now, so I’m definitely overdue for a sharpening. So I picked up the Fiskars Desktop Scissors Sharpener and decided to give it a whirl.
According to the package:
“Restore blades to precise cutting edges with the Desktop Scissors Sharpener from Fiskars. Its sharpening rods reshape worn blade edges, while its tuning rods smooth the inside of the blades for effortless cutting.

To use, simply insert the blades into the sharpening unit and make several gentle cutting strokes (four strokes are generally sufficient). The blades should be carefully cleaned with a cloth to remove any dust caused by sharpening.

The compact, lightweight unit accommodates most lightweight stainless steel scissors that have a 30° cutting edge angle. Although it is adaptable forright-handed or left-handed use, the unit is not intended for use with trueleft-handed scissors or scissors with different angles or specialty edges.”

I started with my least important, least expensive to replace scissors: paper scissors. They’re cheap, $2 scissors I got from CVS, so if this sharpener messed them up, I wouldn’t really care. Holding it stationary on my table, I inserted the blades, pulled them out in a slow, cutting motion, and repeated this the recommended four times. When I tested them on a piece of paper, I could tell they were definitely sharper.
Feeling pretty confident with the results from my paper scissors, I moved on to my Fiskar thread snips I use for clipping threads and trimming seams. Four strokes on the sharpener and presto, my snips were back in business. Ok, on to the major offender: my shears.
The shears were a little harder to sharpen because the blades were longer than the previous scissors I had tried, so it was a little more difficult to get the angle right when pulling the blades through the sharpener in a smooth motion. Before I tried to sharpen these scissors, there were all sorts of visible marks in the blades from pins I had accidentally cut into while cutting out fabric, making each cut of the scissors rough and uneven. After they were sharpened, they cut like butter. I couldn’t believe it! My 13 year-old blades that had never been sharpened before cut like they were brand new.
What I liked:
– The sharpener felt more sturdy and safer than this sharpener, which you hold steady in your hands
– It’s pretty small, and tucks away nicely in a drawer or sewing basket. Not too big, not too small.
What I didn’t like:
– This seems to work better with smaller scissors than with shears. I’m not sure how easily it could accommodate a pair of 9″ dressmaker shears, mine were only 6″
– If you’re left-handed and use true lefty scissors, this product will not work on your scissors. Same goes for pinking shears and other specialty scissors.
Overall:
I’m so glad I tried this out, because if I didn’t, I’d still be cutting away my garment fabric with choppy blades and muttering words of frustration at my raggedy edges. For the scissors I have, it was well worth the investment and I recommend it to all who suffer from jagged scissor syndrome.
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Early Fall 2011 Review: Vogue Patterns

I received an email in my inbox the other day from Vogue Patterns about their new “early fall” collection, so I thought I’d take a gander and see what I wanted to add to my fall sewing list. Not much, as usual, since fall patterns don’t inspire me to sew as much as spring and summer ones do.


Description: Flared, with waist facing, side seam pockets

This skirt is reminiscent of a wool Lands’ End Canvas skirt that I bought for work last year, and it is easily my favorite skirt in my wardrobe for fall/winter (although a little on the short side for work…I always pair it with tights and boots). I love circle skirts since they are flattering on my figure and make it look like I actually have a waist! This skirt is simple enough and classic, which are two requirements on my “to sew” list. Check!


Vogue 8747 Misses Shirt

Description: Fitted. A, B, C, & D cups

After reading an article in the September issue of Threads Magazine about altering and embellishing button-down shirts, I want to apply some of those techniques to this pattern. I love that the pattern is part of their “Custom Fit” line of patterns, meaning that I’ll be able to fit my bust, my biggest pattern fitting problem. Love the ruching too, it takes it from a boring button-down shirt to something with a little more style.


Vogue 1252 Tracy Reese Dress

Description: Lined dress has close-fitting bodice and side front in-seam pockets

Not too sure about this one…I’ll probably wait until some other adventurous sewists stitch up this dress and review it before I make it. The print in the picture above really takes away from the interesting neckline and gathering details around the bodice that are visible in the line drawing, which really sold me the design. I also really liked the Tracy Reese dress I just finished (working on another as I’m typing this), so I wanted to give another one of her designs a try. But like I said, I’ll see how others do first…this would be a nice addition to my fall closet though. I bet it would look super cute with boots!
Not really much else that grabbed my attention from Vogue for this early fall collection. I’m hoping that their next collection will have more garments that strike my interest.
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Collapsible Shopping Tote

For Christmas, my sister gave me the new sewing book “One Yard Wonders,” which has so many fabulous projects in it made of – obviously – just one yard of fabric. The projects are quite inspiring as to how to use up the odds and ends of fabric that seem to accumulate over time from miscellaneous projects, impulse purchases and what not. So needless to say, I have a lot of projects planned from this book!

Collapsible Shopping Tote
I absolutely love my first project – the Collapsible Shopping Tote. It’s a lot like those overpriced bags that you see at stores for sale; I worked at a store recently that sold flimsy nylon ones for $12 each! It does fold up a little bit bulkier than said overpriced bags due to the fact that it’s made from quilting cotton and is obviously thicker than cheapy nylon.

Collapsible Shopping Tote - Folded Up


The fabric was originally intended for a pair of PJ pants from Heather Ross’s Weekend Sewing, but my fabric wasn’t wide enough for the pattern pieces. And since I bought two yards and needed just a yard for this project, I have enough left to play around with and make something else!

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