skirts Archives - Sew Wrong

Lucinda January 7, 2014

What I Made In 2013: Owl Sweater and Wool Moss Mini [Grainline Studio]

Patterns: Owl Sweater by Kate Davies, Moss Skirt from Grainline Studio
Yarn: Rowan Cocoon, Scree colorway
Fabric: wool from Metro Textile
Sizes: sweater – small, skirt – 6

Hat: Topshop
Leggings: DKNY
Boots: London Fog

During the snow storm late last week, I dreamed up the idea of escaping the cold by going to Maine (hah!) for the weekend and staying at a resort with hot tubs and fireplaces. It was a great weekend last weekend, and so weird to see the place where I vacation in the summer covered in snow. Chris and I walked down to the beach on Sunday, which was a surprisingly warm and sunny day. It felt like a totally different place, seeing all of the beach stores and cafes boarded up for the winter.

Do you remember the sad story about this sweater back in January 2013? After I wove in the ends and blocked the sweater, it stretched out into measurements that were impossible to wear (we’re talking 30″ sleeves, peeps). I threw it in my pile of WIPs, waiting for fall to come so I could harvest the yarn for a big, chunky cowl. Just before I started the frogging, I tried it on one more time – what the heck, it fits!! Since then, this sweater has been in heavy rotation, especially on cold cold days like what we’ve been experiencing in New England lately.

I really really love this sweater! The sleeve are still a little too long, so I just cuff them up a bit and the sleeves are perfect. The stitches are still a bit loose, but it’s ok because I always wear a shirt under the sweater. I’m not sure how I’m going to care for this; I’m afraid of the stretching happening again and the idea of taking it to the dry cleaners doesn’t really appeal to me.

Instead of putting eyes on all of the owls, I just did one owl – it’s more subtle and not as twee looking. Also, I need to try using a needle a size larger when I bind off – I’m barely able to pull the sweater over my head!

Actually, I really love love everything about this outfit! I made another Moss skirt, this time out of wool and acetate from my failed Beignet skirt, and it turned out even better than my first one. After some practice, I think I finally have the hang of inserting a fly front zipper. I went up a size this time since my corduroy skirt was a bit snug, and lengthened the skirt about two inches since my first one was a little too short for my liking and comfort.

It’s absolutely perfect now! I need to make some more of these for warmer weather, this skirt is definitely a TNT (tried ‘n true) pattern in my sewing arsenal.

What are your go-to winter outfits? Mine seem to be mini skirts, leggings or tights, and boots with a cozy sweater on top.

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Lucinda July 5, 2013

Pattern Review: BHL Charlotte Skirt and Simplicity 1665 [Sailboat Suit]

Patterns:
Skirt – By Hand London Charlotte; size US 8
Bolero – Simplicity 1665; size 10
Fabric: Dear Stella home dec fabric from Fabric Place Basement (also available here)

Tee: Alternative Apparel
Flats: Sperry

Maybe it was the sudden turn in the temperatures recently that had me feeling like it was finally summer, but I finished my sailboat suit! In case you haven’t been following along, the idea came to me back in April when I saw the promo pics of the BHL Victoria Blazer. I immediately coveted a cropped version of the blazer paired with the Charlotte skirt made up in a flamingo print cotton. Since “impatient” is my middle name, I couldn’t wait for the pattern to be released and ran out to find a pattern similar to the blazer as well as a funky fabric to pair with it. What could be more appropriate to wear in New England than sailboats???

The Bolero

When it came down to it, I was essentially looking for a bolero-type jacket pattern for my suit. What I love about Simplicity 1665 is the interesting two-piece neckband and hem band that makes the bolero more special than other simple cropped jackets. It was really easy to sew and I could have finished it a lot faster had I not been distracted by other sewing projects – I swear I’m a magpie when it comes to sewing; something else catches my eye and I end up jumping to another project mid-construction.

For a fun pop of color, I used green bias tape for a Hong Kong seam finish along most of the seams of the bolero since it’s unlined – when there’s a breeze, the inside of the jacket is visible. I was afraid that the bias tape would make the underarm/side seams a little bulky, so I just pinked them instead.

The Skirt

Actually, this was the second time I made the BHL Charlotte skirt; the first version I have yet to blog. From my first version, which I shortened to be a mini-skirt (it’s a little too mini for my liking), I had an idea of how much to shorten the skirt so that I could get a length that wouldn’t be too short to sit in. I have to admit: this still hikes up quite a bit when I sit. Technically, according to the pattern measurements, I should have cut out an 8 for the waist and a 6 for the hips. But what I like about the fit of the straight 8 skirt is that even though it’s fitted, it’s still roomy in the hips and quite comfortable to sit in because of the ease in the hips. There’s a little bit of pooling of fabric in the abdomen, which wouldn’t have been as present if I cut a 6 for the hips, but I don’t notice it that much.

The waistband is a simple rectangle that overlaps in the back; I used a snap to attach the waistband piece together but it probably would have been more prudent to use two large hooks and eyes instead. Eh, it’s what I had kicking around. Maybe in future renditions I’ll interface the waistband to make it stand up a little better.

Seriously, BHL ladies, how is it that you created something so simple that fits so well?! I love me a high waisted skirt, and this is now my go-to pencil skirt pattern in my closet.

The Fabric

Seriously, this has been my favorite find to date at my local fabric haunt, Fabric Place Basement. I went in looking for fabric for a Sultry Sheath dress and as I wandered through some of the home dec aisles, I came across this sailboat print by Dear Stella that was too perfect to pass up. I worked with home dec fabric in the past for garments, (skirts I have yet to post, yeesh) and what I liked about this particular weave is the soft drape that wasn’t like other stiff home dec fabrics. I threw a test swatch into the wash before I laundered the yardage and measured only minimal shrinkage. I’m thinking this isn’t going to be an outfit that gets washed a lot, at least not the jacket, but I’m not too worried about it holding up in cold water in the machine (hang dry).

All in all, if you haven’t made the Charlotte skirt, run over to byhandlondon.com and get a copy now! Those ladies are freakin’ brilliant.

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Lucinda June 18, 2013

Pattern Review – Magic Pencil Skirt [Pamela’s Patterns]

Pattern: The Magic Pencil Skirt from Pamela’s Patterns
Fabric: Yellow doubleknit from Gorgeous Fabrics
Size: XSmall

Top: H&M (really old)
Shoes: Tommy Hilfiger
Lipstick: Nars Niagra

I had the craving for a yellow pencil skirt last winter when Sunny posted a photo of a button-down shirt she made paired with a yellow wool pencil skirt from J Crew. I love me some J Crew, but sadly, my paycheck doesn’t always allow me to indulge on items that aren’t on the sales rack. Luckily, I had some yardage of a beefy yellow doubleknit that felt like it would make a great, wearable skirt.

But to find a pattern for a knit pencil skirt…hmmm. I tried some tutorials that I found online to make a knit pencil skirt pattern (trace an existing skirt, measure your hips and draw a rectangle), but they ended up making me feel like I was wearing a tube skirt or a sausage casing. I didn’t want it to be painted on, but the shaping just wasn’t quite right in the hips and thighs. Enter Pamela’s Patterns Magic Pencil Skirt.

This pattern was a no-brainer and I made it in about two hours from cutting out to sewing the hem, plus I did some fitting in that time-frame as well. Instead of being just a simple tube, the pattern has front and back waist darts to provide some shaping, and the silhouette of the skirt is pegged perfectly – definitely worth the $10 for the pattern. The only change I needed to make was taking in each side seam 1/4″, making the total side seam allowance 6/8″ for the XSmall. I turned the hem up the recommended 1 1/2″ and used a twin stretch needle to sew it – my favorite non-serger way to hem knits.

The elastic waistband isn’t like what you’d think of for the typical bunchy elastic waistband, it’s actually pretty smooth and flat. I got some Fantastic Elastic for free with my pattern because of a shipping error (Thanks, Pamela, for the elastic!) and it was a dream to use. Basically, it’s a type of elastic used in the fashion industry and can be cut down to whatever width you need. I’m convinced that the waistband wouldn’t have been as nice and smooth with other elastic, this stuff is high quality. It makes it totally possible to tuck in a shirt if you want to.

This skirt has “cake” written all over it – this is a pattern that I’ll be making over and over again, it’s easy to pair up with a lot of different tops in my closet, and it’s super comfy and easy to wear. I can’t wait to wear this skirt in the fall with a sweater and boots! If you’ve never tried Pamela’s Patterns before, this is a great pattern to start with.

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Lucinda May 18, 2013

Saturday Sewing: Seahorse Charlotte Mini

This seahorse skirt is happening for reals. #sewing #fridaynight @byhandlondon

I don’t think there’s ever been a time when I’ve been able to walk out of Grey’s Fabric and Notions without something new, be it fabric or a pattern. This past Wednesday I went to my first Crafty Foxes Sewing Club at the store and had a great time working on my sewing projects and chatting with other local sewists. One of the girls that night was wearing a Charlotte skirt and it kind of sealed the deal for me on making one – it really is the perfect high-waisted pencil skirt and I HAD to make it. And of course, what’s better than a skirt with seahorses???

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Lucinda May 7, 2013

Pattern Review: Blue Beignet Skirt [Colette Patterns]

Pattern: Beignet from Colette Patterns
Fabric: Blue cotton twill from Metro Textile in NYC
Size: 6

Top: Jasmine

This skirt was a long time in the making. Back in January I attempted to make a Beignet skirt from some luscious green wool I bought on a shopping trip to New York. There was my first mistake – the wool was way too heavy/bulky for this kind of skirt. It was a matter of romance with the color: I envisioned a sleek, sophisticated moss colored skirt with light green buttons. Sadly, the skirt looked like a big sack and the buttonholes were a nightmare, mostly because I wasn’t using the right techniques for sewing buttonholes and buttons in place. Twelve buttonholes are not for the faint of heart.

Fast-forward to early April – I’m visiting my parents during Sewcation and using my mom’s sewing room to try my hand at this skirt again. I omitted the lining (didn’t feel it was necessary and didn’t want to risk the bulk issue again) and sewed the skirt together pretty easily. And then, it was just me and the buttonholes…

I’m laughing because I conquered those bastards!

The automatic buttonhole feature on my mom’s Bernina has now forever spoiled me. Helloooo…it remembers the buttonhole length for all the buttonholes you need to sew!! No guessing or crossing your fingers (bad to do when sewing anyway), just press the button, guide the fabric, and voila. Perfect freaking buttonholes. It’s hard to go back to my hand-crank four-step buttonhole sewing machine after that little bit of sewing heaven…

I also learned the hard way that it’s more exact to make tailor tacks rather than use chalk to mark the holes. I think that also helped out a lot in getting nice, straight, even buttonholes.

And then there’s the cutting open of the buttonholes. I posted a video tutorial on the best way to open buttonholes when I made this skirt and really, it’s pretty great if I do say so myself. There were no seam ripper nightmares on this skirt!

Overall, I’m pretty happy with this skirt. The fit isn’t as sleek as I’d like and seems to stand out more than other Beignet skirts, like Rachel’s from House of Pinheiro. If I had been more concerned about the fit at the time, I would have taken in the seams a little bit in the front (it dips in slightly) and sides. I feel like the waist should fit a little tighter…maybe it would fit better if I paired it with a belt (I didn’t like how it looked with the fabric belt at all).

Would I make this skirt again? Maybe…it was a big time investment in making the buttonholes and sewing the buttons down (a trick I’ll try to share on here sometime). I like Andrea’s version with no buttons – that seems more like a realistic repeat to me. But there’s other button skirts on my radar, too…(hello Kelly skirt). Only time will tell!