Sew Wrong

DIY Spring 2012 Fashion Trends: The High-Low Hem

hilowhem

Some like it and some hate it, but the High-Low Hem is a hot trend for spring.  I’ll admit that it’s a trend I wasn’t initially on board with (heck, let’s call it what it is: a mullet!), but the more I see pictures in magazines or skirts and dresses in stores with this type of hem, it’s grown on me.  It’s a lady-like hem that can range anywhere from demure to daring depending on the length of the front hem.  There aren’t a whole lot of options when it comes to finding patterns to copy this trend, but I imagine it’d be fairly easy to adapt a skirt or dress pattern of your liking with a french curve to alter and grade the front of a pattern.
Skirts:
This McCall’s skirt pattern was the only pattern in the Big 3 that I could find with this type of hem.  The patterns seems like a versatile collection of skirts with varying hem styles, including your plain ol’ regular hem.  
Dresses:
Simplicity 1881

If you’re looking for a dress pattern, these two from McCall’s and Simplicity seem to be your best bet – McCall’s for a shorter dress and Simplicity for a longer, evening style dress.
Tops:

Vogue 8771

This trend isn’t just for skirts and dresses!  There are also a lot of RTW tops now with this short in the front/long in the back hem.  Vogue 8771, which I featured in my color-blocking post, also has a view with a slightly curved hem that fits this trend.  This is a much more subtle look than a lot of high/low tops available at a store near you.
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DIY Spring 2012 Fashion Trends – Color Blocking

color blocking

From left to right: Nanette Lepore, Milly, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang, Carolina Herrera

In case you haven’t noticed, color blocking is everywhere!  I thought that this was a trend that had gone away, but apparently I was wrong when I cracked open my spring fashion magazines (or when I said to one of my coworkers that “color blocking was so last season” and she pointed to the new pairs of color blocked shoes that we got in the store.  Oi.)  This trend was surprisingly easy to find patterns for from every major pattern company.  McCall’s new spring line even included a few patterns that allowed for color blocking variations.

So how do you wear this loud, bold trend and not look like Rainbow Brite?  Keep the maximum number of colors to three.  Based on the runway pictures above, it seems the easiest color combinations are with a white or black added in to the mix.  Or, keep the colors in the family – try mixing different shades of blues together to get a monochromatic but still color blocked look.  Depending on the pattern shapes, this can also be a figure flattering trend utilizing the technique of “trompe l’oeil” – some of the dresses and skirts below have a slenderizing look to them.  Below is a compilation of patterns that you can use at home to try out one of the easiest spring fashion trends.

Dresses:

Skirts:
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DIY Spring 2012 Fashion Trends – The Peplum

The “Big 3” sewing pattern companies introduce new pattern lines each season and I’ve always wondered how on-trend they are.  In this round, I’m seeing what patterns could be used to copy current runway trends.  First up: the peplum.

Spring 2012 - Peplums

From left to right: Jason Wu, Alexander McQueen, Aqua, Giambattista Valli

A peplum is essentially a short overskirt attached to a fitted garment, such as a skirt, jacket, or top.  In modern day clothing, they became popular in the 1940’s (hello, Dior New Look), faded way after a few years, and then came roaring back in the 80’s and 90’s with power suits and shoulder pads.  Today’s peplum seen on the spring runways is a slightly longer version of what was seen in the early 2000’s.  What I love about peplums for my straight-up-and-down body type is that it gives the illusion of an hourglass shape.

After some scouring, here’s a compilation of patterns that could be used to achieve this runway look at home:

Simplicity 1876
Simplicity 1877
In an abstract sense, these Leanne Marshall (love her!!) dresses could be considered peplum dresses, especially Simplicity 1877, which is similar to the white Aqua dress above.  They each have different layers of skirts that fall over each other and create that hourglass look.  For both patterns, the top skirt layer could be kept and the under layers eliminated to get a truer peplum look.
Simplicity 2601

Butterick 5709
The peplums on these tops are more restrained and modest in shape than the leopard print Giambattista Valli top above.  Maybe they could be redrafted to have more fullness by making the peplum pattern pieces wider, which would result in gathering more fabric at the waist.  I think the sleeveless version of the Simplicity pattern with the ruffles down the front is darling.

New Look is not one of the “Big 3” but falls under the Simplicity umbrella, and since I wanted to feature a skirt pattern this is the only one I could find.  The peplums on these skirts aren’t dramatic and mirror the shape of the skirt underneath closely, so no worries about added bulk and width to the hip area.  I’d love to adapt one of these skirts to recreate the Honeyed Peplum Skirt from Anthropologie.

If you’re looking for a peplum style jacket, Bellville Sassoon and Chado Ralph Rucci have you covered.  Vogue 1296 is full of drama and perfect for a fancy evening out, and Vogue 1269 would be a great office outfit – love how the peplum echos the sleeves and skirt.
All in all, I was impressed with how many options I found to recreate this spring 2012 fashion trend.  These peplums definitely feel more RTW than runway but are a great springboard for pattern alteration.

Will you be sewing peplums this spring?

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