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Lucinda September 21, 2013

Pattern Review: Victoria Blazer [By Hand London]

Pattern: Victoria Blazer from By Hand London
Fabric: Shell – cotton sateen from Grey’s Fabric Lining – poly charmeuse from Joann’s
Size: 4

Shirt: Lucky Brand
Jeans: Mek Denim
Flats: Michael Kors
Shades: Tommy Hilfiger

Green is my favorite color, so it was a no-brainer to make this blazer out of a green cotton sateen I spotted at Grey’s when I went fabric shopping with my friends (Ana bought the same fabric but in a gold color to make her own version).

I don’t have a whole lot to say about this blazer since I’m not crazy about it. I love the colors and it was easy to put together, but I’m not too sure if it’s “me” or not.

I totally lucked out on the lining, I found it in the remnant bin at Joann Fabrics for $5. I decided to fully line the jacket so it would be easy to take on and off.

Even though the pattern didn’t call for interfacing, I wish it had. I kept obsessing over pressing and pressing the collar and lapels, trying to get them to stay crisp and flat. Do BHL patterns just not call for interfacing? I only made the Charlotte skirt so far, and was also surprised that there was no requirement for interfacing in the waistband. I also kicked myself for not understitching after I attached the lining to the jacket. Again, not called for in the instructions, and it bothers me that the lining rolls out from time to time and can be seen along the blazer lapels and bottom hem. I was surprised that that wasn’t a construction step, but I’m also mad that I didn’t think to do it myself. Again, something else that I’m not happy about with this blazer.

If I was to make another one, I’d probably omit the pockets – they’re not the type of pockets that you can put your hands in and walk around, they’re set back a little too far.

I’m not sure if this jacket is exactly my style, especially at this length – I feel like it was one of those patterns that everyone was making so I decided to as well. I’m more of a structured, pulled-together kinda gal, and this blazer has a very casual, sloppy kind of feel to it. Perhaps if I did a shorter length with the above mods I would get a different result. Now that I’ve made one blazer, I don’t have any fear about sewing a more complicated jacket pattern down the road.

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Lucinda July 5, 2013

Pattern Review: BHL Charlotte Skirt and Simplicity 1665 [Sailboat Suit]

Patterns:
Skirt – By Hand London Charlotte; size US 8
Bolero – Simplicity 1665; size 10
Fabric: Dear Stella home dec fabric from Fabric Place Basement (also available here)

Tee: Alternative Apparel
Flats: Sperry

Maybe it was the sudden turn in the temperatures recently that had me feeling like it was finally summer, but I finished my sailboat suit! In case you haven’t been following along, the idea came to me back in April when I saw the promo pics of the BHL Victoria Blazer. I immediately coveted a cropped version of the blazer paired with the Charlotte skirt made up in a flamingo print cotton. Since “impatient” is my middle name, I couldn’t wait for the pattern to be released and ran out to find a pattern similar to the blazer as well as a funky fabric to pair with it. What could be more appropriate to wear in New England than sailboats???

The Bolero

When it came down to it, I was essentially looking for a bolero-type jacket pattern for my suit. What I love about Simplicity 1665 is the interesting two-piece neckband and hem band that makes the bolero more special than other simple cropped jackets. It was really easy to sew and I could have finished it a lot faster had I not been distracted by other sewing projects – I swear I’m a magpie when it comes to sewing; something else catches my eye and I end up jumping to another project mid-construction.

For a fun pop of color, I used green bias tape for a Hong Kong seam finish along most of the seams of the bolero since it’s unlined – when there’s a breeze, the inside of the jacket is visible. I was afraid that the bias tape would make the underarm/side seams a little bulky, so I just pinked them instead.

The Skirt

Actually, this was the second time I made the BHL Charlotte skirt; the first version I have yet to blog. From my first version, which I shortened to be a mini-skirt (it’s a little too mini for my liking), I had an idea of how much to shorten the skirt so that I could get a length that wouldn’t be too short to sit in. I have to admit: this still hikes up quite a bit when I sit. Technically, according to the pattern measurements, I should have cut out an 8 for the waist and a 6 for the hips. But what I like about the fit of the straight 8 skirt is that even though it’s fitted, it’s still roomy in the hips and quite comfortable to sit in because of the ease in the hips. There’s a little bit of pooling of fabric in the abdomen, which wouldn’t have been as present if I cut a 6 for the hips, but I don’t notice it that much.

The waistband is a simple rectangle that overlaps in the back; I used a snap to attach the waistband piece together but it probably would have been more prudent to use two large hooks and eyes instead. Eh, it’s what I had kicking around. Maybe in future renditions I’ll interface the waistband to make it stand up a little better.

Seriously, BHL ladies, how is it that you created something so simple that fits so well?! I love me a high waisted skirt, and this is now my go-to pencil skirt pattern in my closet.

The Fabric

Seriously, this has been my favorite find to date at my local fabric haunt, Fabric Place Basement. I went in looking for fabric for a Sultry Sheath dress and as I wandered through some of the home dec aisles, I came across this sailboat print by Dear Stella that was too perfect to pass up. I worked with home dec fabric in the past for garments, (skirts I have yet to post, yeesh) and what I liked about this particular weave is the soft drape that wasn’t like other stiff home dec fabrics. I threw a test swatch into the wash before I laundered the yardage and measured only minimal shrinkage. I’m thinking this isn’t going to be an outfit that gets washed a lot, at least not the jacket, but I’m not too worried about it holding up in cold water in the machine (hang dry).

All in all, if you haven’t made the Charlotte skirt, run over to byhandlondon.com and get a copy now! Those ladies are freakin’ brilliant.

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Lucinda April 8, 2009

What I’m Working On – Simplicity 2652

On a better note, here’s a muslin that worked out and is now moving into final construction stage:

Simplicity 2652 – Inspired by Project Runway. There’s all sorts of options to change this little jacket up, like different sleeve lengths and collar details. I’ll be sticking with the cropped jacket and short sleeves, but I had a bit of difficulty attaching the collar. I’ll probably go with the neckband instead.

This jacket looks even cuter on in real life than on the mannequin. The back looks a little funny in the photo since it forms an elastic casing, which pulls in and shapes the back.

I especially love the darts on the sleeves, front, and back of the jacket. It gives it an extra dash of interest.

I’ll be cutting out the real fabric for this tonight, a bright pink linen blend with some nice drape and body. And then, if this one turns out nicely, I’ll make another one for work.