On the Needles: Gemini

WIP - Gemini

Knitting is usually something I do more of during the colder months and conversely, sewing is something I do more of during the warmer months (like right now).  I always associate knitting with projects like warm and cozy sweaters and scarves, and since I like to knit primarily with wool, it makes it difficult to sit underneath a growing wooly project in the summer when there’s no AC in my apartment.  Yes, there’s cotton, but I’m not such a fan…

However, I’m absolutely in love with what I’m working with right now – Classic Elite Cotton Bam Boo.  Here’s four reasons from the label on why you should knit with Cotton Bam Boo:

  • Incredibly soft hand
  • Great stitch definition
  • Beautiful drape
  • Uses a renewable resource

So far, I agree with all of the above!  I found this yarn at Windsor Button in Boston when I went shopping with the girls from my knitting group and was searching for some kind of drapey yarn to make Gemini.  It feels soft on my hands and isn’t abrasive at all like some cottons, and although it’s a little splitty, the stitches are quite defined as you can see above.  I can tell that this is going to be comfortable and cool to wear on hot days this summer.

This is knitting up in a flash now that I’ve finished the lace, increases, and divided the sleeves from the body. I had to start this five times because of stupid mistakes like twisting the beginning of the round – rookie mistakes, yeesh!  But now that all of the “complicated” parts are done, it’s smooth sailing from here just knitting rounds and rounds of stockinette, great for TV watching or chatting at knit night.  This is definitely a project I’ll finish in time to wear this summer.

BTW – I’m a big Jane Richmond fan!  Check out her original designs on her site and her blog for tutorials.

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Simplicity 2657 – Sew Stylish Sundress

Simplicity 2657 - Sew Stylish Sundress

Pattern: Simplicity Sew Stylish 2657, View C

Size: 8/10 for the bodice, graded to a 12 in the skirt

Fabric: Cotton Twill from Joann Fabrics (an awesome find)
This pattern has been in my stash for two years since it was the feature pattern in the Spring 2009 issue of Sew Stylish Magazine, a younger and hipper version of Threads Magazine geared towards the sewing newbie. When doing research on this pattern before I committed to making it, I was surprised on how few people had made this pattern. There were the few sewers who made alterations to this pattern for maternity wear, which wasn’t exactly a turn-on, but I decided to give it a try. I figured once I mastered the fit on this dress, I’d have a great base for a sundress for future dress projects.

Simplicity 2657 - Sew Stylish Sundress


1) The Bust
If you’ve been reading my blog, you know that I’m challenged when it comes to fitting the bust in any type of top/dress pattern. This pattern was featured in the issue to show how to fit a bust using princess seams. Amazingly, the bust fit perfectly on my muslin and I didn’t have to do any type of alteration to the curve of the seams. Instead, I added on to the bodice pieces for more coverage; I added about half an inch on to allow that I can wear a regular bra and not a strapless. Somehow when I widened the front, and consequently the straps as well in the same amount, it created a different neckline than the original pattern, which I like better. The points at the top of the bodice pieces create an unintentional retro look. I swear I did my math right; I have no idea how it happened!
I also need to tack down the surplice, it’ll make the top more smooth looking than in the pictures and prevent it from gaping open slightly.
2) The Straps
Because I widened the front pieces, I had to widen the straps as well. I’m glad I did so since I can wear my normal bras with the dress and not worry about an strappage peeking out. If I really wanted to, I could have made lingerie straps to secure my bra straps in place. Of course, I was too lazy to do so.

Simplicity 2657 - Sew Stylish Sundress

3) The Back
I’ve never had this happen before: the back piece was almost two sizes too large. Like I said, it’s always the front that is an issue to fit, not the back. Solution? I cut an 8, instead of a 10, for the back piece. Plus, I had to grade it in slightly as I got to the waist seam where the skirt joins the bodice. But after I did so, it fit perfectly.

Simplicity 2657 - Sew Stylish Sundress

4) The Zipper
A side zipper – yikes. I’d never put one in before until this dress and wasn’t a fan of the fact that it was a standard zipper the pattern called for, not an invisible zipper. Side zippers seem to be really popular now on RTW dresses since they’re hidden in the side seam and don’t destroy the continuity of a pattern’s design; it’s a hidden construction element. I disregarded the instructions for the regular zipper and assembled the front and back skirt and bodice pieces to each other, installed the invisible zipper, and then sewed the side seams. I also made sure that the zipper stop went all the way to the top of the side seam so I wouldn’t have to sew a hook and eye (dislike), and tacked down the facing in the inside to the side seams.
So summer is coming to an end, I’ve already started thinking about my fall sewing wish list, and I probably won’t look at this pattern again until next year. I can definitely see myself making this pattern again, either as a maxi dress or as a cute tunic top. Once I got the fit down, this was a breeze to sew.
(Pictures are at Ogunquit Beach in Ogunquit, ME)
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Last Days of Summer

Crashing waves - Ogunquit, ME

Rocky rocks - Ogunquit, ME

Walking along the Marginal Way - Ogunquit, ME



I was lucky enough to escape to Ogunquit, ME this week for a two day mini-vacation with my boyfriend’s family, who rent a beach house for two weeks at the end of August every year. I visited Maine about eight years ago with my family during a car trip up to Price Edward Island and we were very underwhelmed; we thought that the coast of Maine would be more stunning and dramatic than what we saw. Clearly we should have visited Ogunquit! So beautiful and picturesque, calm and tranquil, and a whole bunch of other adjectives that describe this town. The beach was neat and clean and not at all rocky/gravely as I expected, but the water was on the cold side both days I was there (plus we got rained out one of the days and stayed inside playing games all afternoon). It was sad leaving Friday to come back to work, it was like leaving the last bit of summer behind. I know I can’t wait to go back and visit again next year.

And of course, I used the opportunity to take some pictures of a dress I finished during my last vacation in July. Here’s a sneak peek:

Simplicity 2657 blog sneak peek


More pictures and details to come next week, that is, if I still have power after Irene hits New England. Bracing for the weekend ahead…

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Vogue 1224 Tracy Reese Dress – Encore!

Vogue 1224 - Tracy Reese encore

Pattern: Vogue 1224 Tracy Reese

Fabric: Rayon Jersey from Metro Textile, also available at gorgeousfabrics.com
Sandals: Tahari
Earrings: M Style Lab
I loved this pattern so much that I decided to make it again! On my trip last month to New York and my stop at Metro Textile, I bought this amazing knit jersey that Kashi showed me in his studio. At first I thought it was a bit, well…wild and bright for my personal tastes. But being that I am required to wear black for my job five days a week, a pop of color and a splashy print is a welcome addition to my usually neutral wardrobe.

Vogue 1224 - Tracy Reese encore

Not really much to elaborate on other than the fact that I love this print and wanted to share it with everyone. For a fabric like this, a simple silhouette is really key: if there was more to the design of the construction, it would be lost due to the nature of the print. Pattern selection to fit the nature of the fabric is just as important as fabric selection to fit the requirements of the pattern.

Vogue 1224 - Tracy Reese encore

I used the same mods as before: no drawstring at the neck, just elastic; graded the skirt from a 10 to a 12; added 2″ to the length so that it wasn’t hitting at my thigh. You can read more details about the first dress here: Vogue 1224 Tracy Reese Dress
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Simplicity 8741 – Peasant Blouse

Simplicity 8741

Pattern: Simplicity 8741 (discontinued)

Fabric: Embroidered cotton eyelet from Gorgeous Fabrics
Size: 10? I think?
Shoes: Target (Merona Brand)
Watch: Citizen
Glasses: Zenni Optical
I’ve had this fabric in my stash for about two years and had a hard time trying to find a pattern that would complement it. It was lightweight, a little transparent, and had such a cool embroidered flower pattern that I knew I didn’t a pattern that would break up the design. Something loose and breezy…a peasant top!
I actually made this top in 2010 and for some reason didn’t get around to hemming it until this year. It’s a pretty straightforward pattern – no changes or modification necessary. I’m pretty sure I made a 10 and didn’t grade it at the waist out to a 12 like I usually do…since it’s such a loose fitting top style-wise, I wanted it to be as fitted and trim as possible. A lot of times there’s way too much ease it tops of this style: see this babydoll top I made in 2008 as an example. So I took my chances and this top fit the bill.
Simplicity 8741

A new technique I tried with this top were french seams, a seam finishing technique commonly used on sheer and lightweight fabrics to conceal raw edges. Since this fabric is a little on the sheer side, I opted to finish all of my seams, even the armhole seams, using this technique and I loved it. The inside is so professional looking, and even though it was a little more time consuming, it was worth it. I’ve washed the top a few times and it’s held up nicely. Plus, if I hadn’t done that, my seam allowances would be visible from the right side. That wouldn’t look nice at all!
Simplicity 8741

I am such a cheesball sometimes.

All in all, a pretty simple, go-to top for something like this. I would use it again if I’m looking for a peasant style top since I know it:

a) won’t make me look prego with billowing gathers of fabric
and
b) is a snap to stitch up.

Just a nice, straightforward, easy-breezy top for summer. And on hot days like today, that’s a necessity.
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