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Lucinda May 16, 2012

MMM ’12 – May 13

Me-Made Item: Top (self-drafted pattern)
Link to Original Review: N/A

Jeans: Michael Kors
Sandals: Marc Fisher

Wearability Report:

I never got around to blogging about this top when I made it two years ago! This top was based off of my learnings from Cal Patch’s book Design-It-Yourself Clothes that I received as a birthday gift that year (along with the mega-huge Patternmaking for Fashion Design). For the longest time I’ve wanted to learn how to draft my own sewing patterns and I felt completely confident using Cal’s book to draft my first bodice sloper and modify it with my own design elements. That other patternmaking book? It’s intimidating to say the least…plus, it’s a text book. I’ve cracked it open and looked at certain slash-and-spread techniques, but the measurements that are required to make a basic bodice block from this book are mind-boggling. Design-It-Yourself Clothes isn’t as intense and is a good starter book for initially jumping into pattern drafting. Anyway…

Love, love, love this top. I reach for it all the time in my closet and I’m so happy with the fit and how it turned out. Just in case you’re curious, all I did to modify it from my original sloper was spreading the bodice wider to add in some ease and allow it to gather, scooped out more of the neckline, and slash-and-spread the sleeves to make them slightly gathered. I then added a casing for the elastic at the bottom of the sleeves and a neckband casing for the self-fabric drawstring. The bottom edge is left raw since it doesn’t curl up and I liked the look of it.

The sleeves can be a little fussy and bunch up slightly underneath my armpit, plus I don’t think I got where the sleeve seam lays accurate – looks like it should be higher up on my shoulder. But the top is slightly fitted at the bust and loose at the bottom, making it a great, comfy top for relaxing on the weekends. I think I need more separates like this in my closet since they’re more versatile to wear than the dresses that I always seem to sew.

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Lucinda May 1, 2012

Pattern Review – Simplicity 2369

Pattern: Simplicity 2369
Size: 10 graded to a 12
Fabric: Knit ITY from Joann Fabrics

Jeans: Mek Denim
Sunnies: Bulgari
Necklace: birthday gift!
Wristlet: Michael Michael Kors (birthday gift to myself!)

I’ve had this top finished and in my closet for about a month and realized that I never had an opportunity to share it here, partially due to my “photographer” not being available when I was as well as the hours I’m working for my new job (I got a promotion!). It was cool in Boston on Sunday and I wanted to feel comfy but look cute for my birthday mini-golf outing – it was definitely a jeans and tee kinda day.

Yes, it was my birthday! I noticed a fine line forming on my forehead in the bathroom that morning and my roots need to be colored since my grays are showing through. Hooray.

Construction

I was apprehensive about how this top was going to fit since wrap tops are always too big on me due to the cross-over piece being too long. This isn’t a “true” wrap top since it’s only a half piece that wraps across the front, and I think that attributed to the correct fitting of this top. I did my usual mods, a 10 graded out to a 12 from waist to hip, and I think I could have gone a bit smaller up top. But I was too lazy to re-cut the top and take in the sides, it wasn’t that major of a fit issue.

My machine, however, did not care for the ITY I was sewing with. I never sewed with an ITY before, even though I have heard rave things about them and it seems to be quite the fabric in the knit fabric world, but I’m not sure I would sew with it again. I love my little Bernina 1005 but it had a hard time stitching consistently and kept skipping stitches, zigging when it should have zagged. I changed the stitch length, even switched to a straight stitch and stretched while I sewed, but it didn’t like that either. Maybe someone reading this has insight into this problem?

I decided to do a neck band instead of a facing for this top, figuring I could benefit from additional fabric being added to an already low neckline. I followed the instructions to make the binding and opted not to turn it to the inside. The only downside is that since I didn’t plan ahead to do this, I have raw edges on the inside. I also have to tie this top pretty tight and watch the neckline during the day, but having worn this top twice now, I haven’t had any gap-age issues. Whew, what a relief!

I loved this pattern – I made the pants to go along with this top as well – and I definitely want to make the dress, too. Since I already attempted to make a test garment for a wrap dress that failed, I bet this pattern will be the pattern I pick to make the wrap dress off of my 12 in 2012 list.

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Lucinda February 6, 2012

On My Cutting Table: Simplicity 2369

This pattern is one of two patterns that I’m trying this month in an attempt to master a style that alludes me: the surplice top/wrap dress. To this day I have not been able to find a dress or top, be it in RTW or a sewing pattern, that fits my bust. The gaping, the droopiness, the excess fabric – I shall conquer it this month. And it’s so far so good with Simplicity 2369.

This tunic is the start of a conscious effort to start sewing more separates, and I’m happy with how well the test garment turned out (above). The neckline is going to be pretty low, but I don’t think I’ll have any gaping issues from what I can tell (otherwise I’d try this). Based on what I’ve read about this pattern on Pattern Review, I’m going to try using clear elastic to stabilize the neckline instead of using a facing. I figured it would be best to start with the tunic version of this pattern and if all goes well, I’ll definitely make the dress version at a later time.

Yesterday I also cut out and made the pants from this pattern that will go with the top. I should have tried them on before I trimmed the allowances since I could have done with a little letting out of the side seams at the thighs – I have “frown lines,” an indicator that there isn’t enough room for my thighs in the front. But I didn’t adjust it and I have some frowny-ness going on and I’m ok with that. I tried the test tunic on with the pants and it’ll cover that area, so no one will know about it but me. I also had to crop about two inches off of the top of the pants since I’m not 85 and I don’t like my pants to hit right at my rib cage – why is it so hard to find pants patterns that have a modern fit? Now that they hit about an inch bellow my belly button, they are the comfiest pants in the world: almost like PJ’s but sewn out of a knit fabric that is socially acceptable to wear in public.

What’s on your cutting table this week?

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Lucinda July 21, 2011

Simplicity 8741 – Peasant Blouse

Pattern: Simplicity 8741 (discontinued)

Fabric: Embroidered cotton eyelet from Gorgeous Fabrics

Size: 10? I think?

Shoes: Target (Merona Brand)

Watch: Citizen

Glasses: Zenni Optical

I’ve had this fabric in my stash for about two years and had a hard time trying to find a pattern that would complement it. It was lightweight, a little transparent, and had such a cool embroidered flower pattern that I knew I didn’t a pattern that would break up the design. Something loose and breezy…a peasant top!

I actually made this top in 2010 and for some reason didn’t get around to hemming it until this year. It’s a pretty straightforward pattern – no changes or modification necessary. I’m pretty sure I made a 10 and didn’t grade it at the waist out to a 12 like I usually do…since it’s such a loose fitting top style-wise, I wanted it to be as fitted and trim as possible. A lot of times there’s way too much ease it tops of this style: see this babydoll top I made in 2008 as an example. So I took my chances and this top fit the bill.

A new technique I tried with this top were french seams, a seam finishing technique commonly used on sheer and lightweight fabrics to conceal raw edges. Since this fabric is a little on the sheer side, I opted to finish all of my seams, even the armhole seams, using this technique and I loved it. The inside is so professional looking, and even though it was a little more time consuming, it was worth it. I’ve washed the top a few times and it’s held up nicely. Plus, if I hadn’t done that, my seam allowances would be visible from the right side. That wouldn’t look nice at all!

I am such a cheesball sometimes.

All in all, a pretty simple, go-to top for something like this. I would use it again if I’m looking for a peasant style top since I know it:

a) won’t make me look prego with billowing gathers of fabric

and

b) is a snap to stitch up.

Just a nice, straightforward, easy-breezy top for summer. And on hot days like today, that’s a necessity.

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Lucinda July 18, 2010

Finished: McCall’s 6078 Tank

Pattern: McCall’s 6078 (View B)

Size: Small

Fabric: Rayon interlock from Hancock’s (bought over a year ago)

I whipped this top up for the Sew, Mama, Sew Make It Wear It Challenge at the very last minute, and what better to make than something I can wear to work! I’ve had this fabric in my stash for over a year, and found an easy tank pattern that’s similar to the Calvin Klein tops I’ve been wearing for work. I bet I’d probably save money making up that pattern in all sorts of different fabrics than buying the tanks each time they come out in a new color!