Surplice/wrap/mock wrap dresses have eluded me. I’m convinced that I’m just not “built” for them since they always gape open. However, I’ve seen so many positive reviews of the Tiramisu dress by Cake Patterns that I wanted to give it a shot. Basically, you measure your high bust, full bust, and waist to determine what size to cut out – there’s about 20 different size combinations, which makes it pretty promising that someone like me who is “wrap challenged” could find the right fit.
Well…sort of. I think I erroneously measured myself and cut out a 30D since I thought my high bust was 33.5 and full bust was 34. When I basted the side seams together, I was surprised to find crazy bagginess at the underbust seam. I ended up pinching out about 2.5″ and moving up the underbust seam.
This kind of fixed the problem but it ended up messing up the sleeve seam since I made the front shorter than the back. I finished sewing the rest of the dress and it fits perfectly in the waist and hips, but I’m bugged that I couldn’t get the bust to fit correctly. I’ll still wear my practice dress though!
I just went back and re-measured myself – my high bust is 34.5″ and full bust is 35″. Well gee, no wonder I didn’t get the right fit! I’m still conflicted about what size to cut out: those measurements almost match up to a 35A bodice piece, but I think the 30 fits me well in the shoulders. I may just bite the bullet and cut out the 35A and give it a whirl in my pink knit fabric.
Have you made the Tiramisu? How did you get the fit right?
![On My Sewing Table – Plaid Archer [Grunge Sew-a-Long]](data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAlgAAAGQAQMAAABI+4zbAAAAA1BMVEUAAACnej3aAAAAAXRSTlMAQObYZgAAADRJREFUeNrtwQENAAAAwiD7p7bHBwwAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAgKQDdsAAAWZeCiIAAAAASUVORK5CYII=)
Hey, I haven't made the Tiramisu but I am not 'built' either. I found The Slapdash Sewist's Small Bust Adjustment really helpful and tried it out here:
http://thepetitesewist.blogspot.com/2012/05/vogue-8379-perfect-wrap-dress.html
If your muslin fits okay everywhere but the bust, I would recommend taking out a little fullness like I did in the photo. That way you know it will work. With your muslin, you can pin out the fullness and figure out how much to take out at the neckline, then taper your pattern in, kind of like a dart. Good luck! You can do it.
Thanks for the link! That tip looks helpful
i made this dress a while back and while i love the outcome, my scaling was all off (did the pdf version) and basically i ended up sewing a size the was a full size smaller than i measured. it fit great and didn't need too much fussing after. i'm small-busted, and had i sewn the "right" size in the correct scale, i would have drown in the fabric! i definitely appreciate the idea behind the sizing, but for the smaller bust sizes it just doesn't work out as is. good luck, hope you can get it to work!
So crazy that the "right" size, based on measurements, is way too big! I'm glad I'm not the only one who experienced this.
I wouldn't go a size larger, but maybe down a bust size and then shorten for the next one. When shortening, try keeping the side the same length (unless you need shorter all around) and take the extra length off at the middle tapering to nothing at the sides. My measurements are pretty close to yours and I had no bagginess, but I took off an inch or so at CF, tapered to nothing at sides. I love your fabric!
Exactly what I'm thinking – maybe a 30B? I don't mind my knits fitting tightly so if it's a little too small, that's ok. I like your idea of tapering, too, that would have been the correct solution to my fitting problems on my test dress.
Wow, I have almost exactly the same bust measurements as you, and have the same dilemma about what size to cut! I'm thinking the 35A and taking it in a bunch, since I'm afraid the shoulders on the 30 will be too small… I'm interested to see what you end up doing!
Coincidence 2: I made a dress with that same fabric (ity from gorgeous fabrics, right?) a few years ago and I love it. What a great print, right?
I'm not at all your size- but i had a very similar problem. I'm beginning to suspect that the sizing on this pattern is a bit over engineered. On my first version i did some hacking at the bodice in both the front and back (more on the front) to get a reasonable fit. I also shortened the midriff by about 2 inches. On the second version i ended up cutting the width of my original size but instead of the C bust which I used on the first pattern (even though I measured as a D), I cut the A bust size. It fit pretty well, but I'm still getting some gaping. I think i'm going to rip out the seam between the front bust and the waistband and overlap the two front pieces by about another inch. I'm hoping that will fix the problem- though it will probably result in some sizing problems through the midriff piece. I say- if in doubt, size down on this pattern! That said, i think your second version is totally wearable and the fabric is great! I love the style of this pattern but I feel like I can't figure out the fit!