Finished Project: Simplicity 1158 Hack


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Pattern: Simplicity 1158, with alterations
Fabric: silk jersey from Metro Textiles

Most people, the night before going to a friend’s wedding, would already have something picked out to wear.  However, I’m not like most people, and decided at the 11th hour to make a new dress to wear to the wedding the next day…because it’s not like I have a closet full of dresses, right?? [insert sarcasm here].

I planned on wearing a Georgia dress that was already in the works, but I hadn’t factored in the amount of stretch in my fabric when making my muslin, and the almost-completed dress required a lot of fitting and taking in throughout.  That didn’t seem like any fun at all, so I instead decided, at 9PM the night before, to pull out my patterns and fabric stash to see what I could mashup in a hurry – how about a cute jumpsuit out of some silk jersey?  Perfect.


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Yup, this dress started as a jumpsuit, like the original pattern.  Once I had the shorts attached to the bodice and tried the jumpsuit on, something just wasn’t right…maybe it was the proportions of the length of the shorts to the bodice, the fit – I’m not sure.  I loved how blouse-y the bodice was, and it reminded me of a dress I made a few years ago that had a similar bodice but with a slim fitting skirt.  After a little pattern hacking and taking it at the sides, I had a skirt pattern and got the exact look I hoped for.


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The back is really the best part of the pattern, in my opinion.  It’s a little revealing, but not too much, like Goldilocks it’s juuuuust right.  I opted not to use the facing piece for the neckline (I never have luck with them staying put on knit bodices) and instead finished the edges with my serger, turned under, and stitched the edges down.  Since it’s such a loose fitting bodice, I wasn’t worried about the neckline stretching out of shape.

Speaking of the fit of the bodice, I went with my normal 10 and should have gone down at least one size.  I had to tack open the front of the bodice, otherwise it would have been “flash-city.  Going down a size would have made the back opening gape less as well, which wouldn’t be a bad thing.


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The finishing touch was the sash!  It ties everything together, defines the waist and keeps the bodice looking blouse-y, and is fun to shake and shimmy with on the dance floor.


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This dress was definitely a hurry-up-fast make, and not my best stitching by any means, but the fabric definitely makes the look and I loved wearing this to my friend’s wedding.  I can definitely see this being a great go-to dress next year for date nights, maybe my bachelorette weekend, and with a jacket or coverup it would take on a very different look.  As for actually making the jumpsuit from the pattern?  Maybe next year.

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Pattern Review – Zigzag Harem Pants [Pattern Emporium]


harem pants v1

Pattern: Harem Pants by Pattern Emporium, via Indiesew
Fabric: poly challis from Burkholder Fabrics

Tee: Banana Republic
Lipstick: MAC Russian Red

Pants are still a garment that I haven’t figured out yet, mostly because I haven’t taken the time to really try to get a pattern to fit.  Sure, I made some floral pants last year that were pretty close, but I have yet to get a TNT pattern that’s a go-to anytime I want to make some pants.  I also wear jeans 24/7 most of the year, another reason I haven’t thrown myself into sewing pants.

However, I’m really digging this whole “track pants” thing, and I’ve seen some cute printed pants around the office that look easy-breezy to wear on hot summer days.  The Hudson Pants are a great knit track pants pattern, and I needed one for woven fabrics, like the Harem Pants that Allie made recently.

Honestly, there’s not much to say about elastic-waist pants other than they are ridiculously comfortable to wear!  The sizing was a little weird on these – looking at the finished pattern measurements, I cut out a 10 in the slim version of the pattern since it matched my hip measurement, but they ended up being waaaaay too big in the hips and waist.  This version is a size 8, and it’s spot on.


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I like that there’s a section of the instructions that show you how to customize the pants with different types of pockets, a drawstring option, and hem lengths.  I opted for the angled pocket option and decided to leave the hem open at the bottom instead of using elastic to gather the cuff.  The pockets bow out a little bit at the hips, but that’s probably my fault when I basted them down to the side seams.


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One of my hesitations with elastic-waist pants is how the butt is going to fit as well as the elastic waistband being bunchy around the middle.  No problem here!  I was pleasantly surprised with how well-drafted the back is – plenty of room to sit and I don’t feel like I’m wearing some lumpy old-lady pants, these are nice and sleek.  If I make another pair of these, which I probably will since they’re a snap to make, I’ll attach the waistband differently – I didn’t care for the exposed edge inside and would rather have a cleaner, more finished looking waistband.

On a side-note, I was quite happy with how my french braids turned out on my first attempt braiding my hair last weekend.  I don’t think I’ll be wearing my hair like that anytime soon during the week, but it was a fun alternative to throwing my hair up in a bun when it’s hot!  Hmm, how old is too old to wear pigtail braids…

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Pattern Review – Chambray Dress [McCall’s 7081]


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Pattern: McCall’s 7081, view C
Fabric: cotton chambray from Metro Textiles

Sandals: B.O.C
Bracelets: J Crew

Behold, the first garment hot off of my new sewing machine (more on that to come soon)!  On my last day of vacation, I decided to throw caution to the wind and cut out this pattern with no muslin to test the fit.  It was a bold move…and it almost was too small for me in the waist because I didn’t pay attention to the finished measurements on the pattern piece (the usual size I cut was about 1 1/2″ too small, whoops).  But I recut the waistband and was good to go.  Whew, close one!


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I love love love this dress.  Usually I’m not one for circle skirts, but there’s something about this silhouette with the nipped in waist and the full skirt that feels ultra-feminine and is fun to twirl in, an added bonus.  After seeing gal-pal Karissa’s version on Instagram, this pattern skyrocketed to the top of my sewing queue.


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The pattern is really straightforward to make – the bodice has some pleats in the front, a surplice faux wrap (which I tacked in place at the neckline to keep things modest), side zipper, and a real collar with collar stand.  The skirt is a full circle skirt – let me tell you, it was a bitch to hem, but that’s the nature of circle skirts amiright?  Lots and lots of fabric in that skirt, but the method to hem circle skirts on the Coletterie was a sure-fire way to get a professional, neat-looking hem.  I cut out and assembled this dress in an afternoon and evening marathon sewing session, and then hung the dress up overnight for the hem to settle and spent the following evening hemming and hand-sewing the rest of the dress.


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If I had actually sewn a muslin, I could have corrected the fit in the back, which I didn’t notice until I looked at these photos.  I think the bodice may be a little too long, which is a problem I haven’t encountered before with my sewing.  If I choose to make this dress again, which I probably will because it’s a great pattern and would look spiffy in a printed fabric, I’ll need to make that adjustment.


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And lastly – chambray, why have I never sewn with you before??  So easy to handle and work with, and really comfortable against the skin.  I love that it’s denim-like in appearance, but much dressier feeling.  This is a great dress to wear to work (and it hides a full tummy after a big lunch)!

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Giraffes For Work


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Last week, while packing for three back-to-back meetings in three states in the midwest, I came to the realization that I have very few summer clothes that are “work appropriate” for hot weather.  I lived in graphic tees, shorts, and tank tops last year when I worked from home (and could wear jeans and sneakers to see customers), but now that I’m in the office and in front of large customers on a regular basis, I need to step up my game a bit!  Cutesy sundresses just aren’t going to cut it.


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Patterns:  top Linden, view B; skirt Magic Pencil Skirt, reviewed here
Fabric: top – poly knit jersey from Grey’s Fabric; skirt – ponte from Fabric Place Basement

Sandals: Franco Sarto
Bracelets: J. Crew

With my hectic travel schedule lately, I’m tackling quick-and-easy projects during my downtime that also serve as stash-busters, in preparation for my big move to my fiance’s condo at the end of next month.  This Maggie London giraffe print has been hanging out in my stash for a year and a half mainly because I wasn’t sure how to use it.  I bought enough yardage for a dress, but the funny thing I didn’t realize about the fabric is that if it was cut with the greatest direction of stretch going across the body, as usual with knit fabric, the giraffes would run horizontally across instead of up and down.  Weird, right?  The Linden top is perfect for this fabric because it’s not fitted, but there’s just enough stretch in the fabric to pull it on and off comfortably.  And I love the drape of this top!  It’s so different than the other Lindens I made with sweatshirt fleece this past winter.


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I’m now in love with Steam-a-Seam tape – how have I sewn knits for seven years and never used it?  Combined with my standard twin-needle hemming technique, it gave a crisp, perfect finish to the hems and neckline.  This is now my go-to for any type of hemming on knits without bands.

This is also my first “high-low” hem garment ever in my closet – I was so anti these types of tops,dresses etc when they first came out a few years ago.  This is a subtle high-low hem, so it doesn’t bother me as much, and I think it works nicely on a loose silhoutte – it’s more subtle.  The skirt it’s paired with is a high-waisted skirt, so I’m curious how this will look with my normal mid-rise jeans.  This gal does not flash her stomach anywhere that’s not a pool or beach!


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If you’re looking for a quick, mind-numbingly easy project, I highly recommend the Magic Pencil Skirt pattern.  After making your first version and getting the fit down, you can easily whip out one from start to finish in a little over an hour.  I made the skirt and the Linden top between late Friday evening and Saturday morning – it was the top that took the longest because I wanted to do a nice job with the hems!


Everything looks so much more profesh with a label #sewing #stashbusting #handmade

Also note – “designer” label inside.  This top looks totally profesh, amiright?


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Usually when wearing a skirt like this, I pair it with a fitted top.  This combination of a loose top with a skirt pushes me outside of my dressing comfort zone, but the silhouette also feels a bit more modern with the boxy fit and dropped hem of the top.  I think I like it!  I was also relieved that along with being very comfortable to wear, the top also hid the mimosas and apps my friends and I indulged in at a bridal show this weekend.

And now, to pack my suitcase for a trip to Texas this week.  The travel never ends!

  

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Wrap Dress Sewalong – The Reveal!


floral wrap 1


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Pattern: Butterick 5454; sleeve length altered
Fabric: ITY knit from Metro Textiles

Jacket: Michael Kors
Flats: Sperry

Surprise!  This actually isn’t the wrap dress I was planning on making for the sewalong – I started making this version in late February for vacation, but never finished it (hems – I hate sewing them…). I was almost finished with my original dress for the sewalong, but the flutter sleeves didn’t look right and I wanted to make it a sleeveless wrap dress instead.  So, this floral one ended up being perfect to   debut this past weekend for Easter and the timing was perfect to coincide with the sewalong.  Yay!


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For the third rendition of Butterick 5454 (I still have to post version #2!) I took a stab at shortening the sleeves for something more spring-y.  The length is just how I like it – don’t you hate how cap sleeves scrunch up into your armpit?

And yes, there’s still snow on the ground here as you can see in the photos…but it’s a million times better than it has been in the past month.  We’ve had a lot of temps above freezing and the snow is retreating pretty quickly.  Now it’s leather jacket weather!


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The no-gap wrap dress method works every time!


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Hope your wrap dresses were a success!  My co-hosts Ruqayyah at Red Pants Designs and Meg at McCall’s also have their dresses up today, make sure to check them out.

And now, I’m off to pack for a work trip to Las Vegas for the week!  This dress is definitely coming with me.

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