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Pattern Review: Jasmine Blouse [Colette Patterns]


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Pattern: Jasmine by Colette Patterns
Fabric: Crepe de Chine from Gorgeous Fabrics
Size: 2 graded to 4

Pants: Gap
Shoes: Anne Klein
Sunnies: Bulgari

I had every intention of making this top in time for Valentine’s day this year…oops, it’s almost April.  Better late than never, right?  This top is a cute little sailor-inspired pullover and I thought it would look sweet in a silky heart-print fabric (Pssst: I saw this exact same fabric used for a Ralph Lauren dress!!!).  I’m wearing it with some skinny pants I usually wear for work but I think this top will look best tucked into a skirt – the length isn’t as long as I like my tops to be.


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Oh bias…I love how you make garments fit but I hate cutting you out and working with you.  I think it’s pretty genius how this is a woven pullover top and no closures are necessary to take it on and off, yet it still has a fitted shape and isn’t boxy like some pullovers.


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The only fitting I need to do, other than my standard grading out a size between the bust and hips, was raise the bust darts.  I may have raised them a little too high (whoops) but the top fits nicely and isn’t too clingy.  I also omitted the sleeve band and decided to make a narrow 1/4″ hem instead because I’m lazy and I wanted to just finish the top.

If I don’t finish my Laurel dress in time, this will be the top I wear to the Cocktails with Colette party in two weeks…but I think that dress will be completed in no time.  I’m almost finished with my Laurel top, which I’ll be wearing for Easter on Sunday.

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New Pattern Lust: Laurel from Colette Patterns


laurel

I can’t remember the last time I’ve been this excited over a new pattern.  I think I literally shrieked out loud when I opened my email and saw Laurel, a simple shift dress with some shaping from Colette Patterns.  I know I know, I’m continuing the Colette love from my last post, but hey – Colette rocks my socks.  What I love most about this pattern is that the simple design and silhouette makes a great canvas for showcasing some awesome fabrics.

So I’ve changed course on what I’m planning on making for the cocktail party in two weeks.  I received my pattern in the mail on Friday (like, three days after I ordered it, wow!) and went on a hunt this weekend for the perfect fabric.  I landed on a navy blue geometric eyelet that I will layer over a lime green silk habotai – it’s pretty funky but I think it will look preppy/cool.  The silk makes me a little nervous since I’ve never worked with silk before and I’m not a big fan of hand washing my garments, but the final result will be worth it in my mind.

I have a feeling that I’m going to make a load of Laurels this year, so look out!  Tomorrow I’m planning on starting a wearable muslin of the shirt version from some white swiss dot that I’ve had in my stash for awhile.

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Colette and Cocktails @ Grey’s Fabrics!


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Colette Patterns’ Sarai Mitnick is coming to Boston on April 6! Join her at Grey’s Fabric and Notions for cocktails and shopping fun – 15% off all merchandise or 20% if you’re wearing a Colette creation.  I’m frantically hurrying to finish a Jasmine top and perfecting the fit of my Clover pants.  Hope to see you there!
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Clover Muslin, Or, I Will Make Pants In 2013

I decided to take advantage of my “Staycation” this week to catch up on the sewing that I’ve wanted to work on.  If you haven’t been able to tell, my sewing momentum has been lacking in the past couple of months, partially because of work craziness and also because winter is getting to me and I want to make cute clothes for warm weather, not heavy bulky stuff.  I churned out a dress this week from my faux Missoni fabric, gave up on my Beignet (more details on that later), and made a toile (sounds so much fancier than muslin) for a Jasimine blouse.  And since I had the muslin fabric out, I cut out a pair of Clover pants because gosh darnnit, 2013 will be the year that I get over my fear of pants and freaking make a pair already.

So here’s the results from Round 1:


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Since the waist and hip measurements for a size 6 are spot on what I measure, and the Ginger skirt I made last year fit perfectly, I cut out a size 6 and crossed my fingers that everything would turn out as good as humanly possible.  I must say, I’m pretty pleased with how the first muslin turned out since it wasn’t as awful in fit as I thought it would be.  The waist is a perfect fit and comfortable, but I noticed that I have some bunching around the crotch area.  Hmm.  I’d like it to be as smooth as possible, but I don’t want to take so much away that I can’t sit comfortably.

Here’s the back:


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Shhh don’t look at that pile of clothes and fabric in the corner

When analyzing pull/drape lines in pants, the terms “smile” and “frown” are used since you’re looking for lines shaped just like, well, smiles and frowns.  Smiles denote that more fabric is needed in an area and frowns mean that there’s too much fabric and it needs to be reduced.  Well, I’ve got a frown-y backside wth too much fabric going on, affectionately referred to as a “Flat Derriere.”  Now this isn’t news to me, I know I have, ahem, such a backside – I’m all straight lines and no curves.  And since I’ve run into this problem before with pants, it’ll be good to figure out how to eliminate that problem for future pants patterns.  Also, the legs are crazy baggy on me and nowhere near as fitted as they should be, like on Sarai.

So here’s what I’ve determined I need to do so far:

  • Flat rear adjustment: I’ve seen a couple of different techniques online on how to do this and I also looked through some of my Sew Stylish and Threads magazines as well as some of my fitting books.  I have a some ideas on what to do.
  • Shorten the torso: I’m thinking that may be what’s causing the excess fabric in the front and the back?  Maybe it’s just the crotch depth that’s too big.
  • Thin leg adjustment: seems pretty simple, but it’d be the last alteration I do after I get my butt figured out.  Just tapering in the leg from the crotch seam.

Realistically, I don’t think I’ll have these pants fitted/made by the time I go back to work next week.  But it’s nice to have the time to spend on a project this involved.

Do you have any tips on fitting pants?  I’d love to hear them!

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Pattern Review: Colette Patterns Ginger Skirt

bicycle skirt

Pattern: Colette Patterns Ginger
Fabric: Birch Organic Fabrics “Commute” (Coral Ride colorway), purchased at Gather Here
Size: 6

Shirt: Alternative Apparel
Necklace: gift

Three words: Love.  This.  Skirt.

bicycle skirt

I woke up on a rainy Saturday morning thinking about a bicycle print skirt.  For reals.  I don’t know if it had anything to do with my yearning for a bicycle print poly chiffon I saw at Mood back in May that I wish I bought (how darling of a blouse would that be?!) but damn it, I wanted a bicycle skirt.  So I grabbed my rain coat and boots and headed over to Gather Here, local purveyor of all things awesome and most likely to have bicycle print fabric.  And I was right!  Plus, Virginia carries all sorts of awesome pattern lines like Sewaholic, Sew Liberated, and Colette, so I picked up a couple of patterns as well.


This is my first Colette pattern that I’ve made and let me tell you: I’m hooked.  At first glance, $16 seemed steep for a basic skirt pattern (especially since I’m so used to the $1.99 sales at Joann Fabrics), but after opening the envelope and examining the cutting and sewing instructions and design suggestions, it’s clear that a lot of the thought was put into the writing and design of this pattern.  There’s a lot to be said for clearly written sewing instructions, especially if a pattern like this is your first venture into sewing.  


This is essentially a 3-in-1 pattern: three different looking skirts, each with waistband variations or a bias skirt.  I picked option 3 with the straight waistband instead of a curved one.  This is a high-waisted skirt too, which I love, and looks great with either my shirt tucked in or worn out.  The fit is spot on and true to the measurements on the pattern envelope.

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Don’t ask me how I did it, but I managed to get the bicycles lined up going from the skirt into the waistband! Not so much though when it came to the center front seam.  I followed the cutting instructions for lining up stripes but it didn’t work out so well when I assembled the skirt fronts and backs – this was my first venture into sewing with, what I didn’t realize until I got home, a striped fabric.  But I was so bowled over with the waistband alignment!

bicycle skirt

The design tips were a nice addition and gave me the idea to look through my stash for some white piping I knew I had on hand.  The invisible zipper is unfortunately grey instead of white (all I had available) but since I don’t see it when I’m wearing it, I forget about it.  Out of sight, out of mind!

I can tell this is going to be a new favorite pattern of mine that won’t be made just once and then filed away.  A-line skirts are my favorite kind of skirt and this pattern is such a great wardrobe staple that can be modified and adapted for a multitude of looks depending on the fabric and other design elements like pockets, buttons, trims, etc.  This one is a keeper and well worth the money spent!  I can’t wait to try the Jasmine blouse pattern I picked up as well.

Have you made any Colette patterns?  Which is your favorite?

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