Sew Wrong

The Mole Jacket

Grey Cropped Jacket


Pattern: Butterick 5089
Fabric: Wool coating from Metro Textile in NYC
Size: 10

Grey Cropped Jacket

Pros: I like that it’s an express pattern (2 Hour Fashion), and I knew that it would go together fast. Of course, I opted to do some handwork, so it took longer than two hours to do. But still, pretty fast to whip up.

Fabric Used: A furry wool that I bought at Metro Textile in NYC. It seriously looks like I skinned a mole or something. But it’s got a wonderful soft feel to it.

Pattern Alterations: I added an extra snap along the lower edge because otherwise it would flip open if a breeze came by. I have no idea why they just included two snaps at the top and nothing at the bottom to keep it shut. I also hand stitched the neck facings down since they bunched up when trying to put the jacket on.

The collar, because of its bulky nature, has a tendency to roll out in the back. This should have been understitched before adding it to the jacket, but I didn’t know that beforehand. So, unfortunately, it rolls out and there’s not much I can do about it now.

It’s also a bit tricky to put on and to adjust the collar, again because of its bulky nature. I need a mirror to check it out to make sure everything is smooth and not bunchy.

All in all, a good and easy pattern.

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McCall’s Fall Preview

Well, it’s like night and day between the fashions showcased at Simplicity and McCall. McCall is like a breath of fresh air to Simplicity’s dowdy fashion flashback collection. The clothes from McCall are stylish as well as easy, which is something Simplicity missed this season.


It’s not overly fitted, but it’s still sleek and stylish at the same time. You can never go wrong with a classic sheath dress, which is pretty popular right now and will continue on into fall, it seems. 2844 could have learned a lesson from this pattern.


Now this is how a work wardrobe is done. Chic, classic lines, and polished. Nothing like the frump-fest over at 2866.


If the runways are any indication, bows will be big big big for fall (see my previous post on the subject here). Depending on whether or not to cinch the waist, these tops could be dressed up for the office or down for brunch. A little youthful looking, but on trend. I might give view C a shot.

Make sure to check out the new jacket/coat patterns that they added to their collection. Now I’m not sure if I’m going to do a different coat or not for the Great Coat Sew-Along! Which reminds me, I better get going on that…

View all the new items at McCall here.

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Easy Peesy Tee


I thought I’d share a pic of a new drop sleeve top while I was packing for my trip yesterday. I haven’t clipped the threads yet, oops!

Pattern: Really old McCall’s 9134
Fabric: single knit jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics
Size: 12

I think I’m now addicted to knits. They’re so soft and comfy, they drape beautifully, and all you need is a simple pattern and a fabulous print to make a knockout garment.

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Fabric Delivery

Pretty much as soon as I was done writing my post from yesterday, UPS pulled up and dropped off my fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics!


I ordered a yard of this funky knit to make another drop-sleeve top like the one out of the Fandango fabric, but at 60″ wide, it seems like I could make something else since there would be so much extra fabric left over. I might try to find another top pattern when I go to JoAnn on Saturday. I still want the top to be work appropriate.

Which brings me to this beauty:


I knew I had to have it the minute I this Pucci-like print. “Buy me!” it screamed, but I had no idea what to do with it. I thought that maybe a flouncy blouse would do the trick, like Butterick 4659 (ViewD). But then when I unfolded the fabric, I realized just how big of a print the fabric is:

I’m afraid that when I make the above mentioned blouse, which has several pieces to it, the pattern will be lost. I mean it’s worth a shot, and heck I’ll get some kind of neat looking blouse out of it, but I’m still worried that the print is meant for something like lining a coat.

Any input?

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10 Tips for Sewing with Knits

Now, this is by no means an exhaustive list of the do’s and dont’s of working with knits. These are just some things that I learned along the way as well as tips I’ve found in all the books, magazines, and websites that I consulted before losing my knit-sewing virginity.

1. Here’s how to determine how much stretch is in a knit:
up to 5″: 25%
up to 6″: 50%
up to 7″: 75%
up to 8″: 100%

2. Use a chair to support any fabric that might be hanging off your cutting table while you’re cutting out your pattern, since gravity could stretch and pull the excess out of shape. Instead of a tasteful knee length dress, you could end up with a scanty mini!

3. Placing tissue or newspaper under slippery knits makes it easier to cut out since it prevents it from moving around. I also used fabric weights to keep the fabric stable.

4. Don’t use the edges of the fabric as a grainline reference since it may not be straight. Instead, trace a rib of the knit as a reference and use this guideline to lay out pieces that need to be laid out on the straight of the grain.

5. Cutting in carrots weakens the seams as well. Instead, mark with a chalk or pencil, or cut the carrots pointing out instead of in.

6. You don’t need a serger! When sewing with a straight stitch (like I did for my top), make sure to sew the seam twice, then trim the excess. This gives the seam more stability. And of course, stretch from the front and back evenly as you sew with a straight stitch, and stretch the second seam equally.

7. Steam from an iron can make the fabric stretch; you should wait until the fabric has cooled until moving it. The fabric should also be properly supported while ironing, just like how it’s supported when cutting or sewing. It’s got stretch and it wants to!

8. Press in an up and down motion instead of setting the iron down on the fabric and moving it back and forth. This will prevent the knit from getting out of shape and pulling.

9. The most wonderful thing about knits: no seam finishing! If you decide to serge the edges, it will weaken the seams as well as prevent the knit from stretching correctly.

10. A twin needle finish provides a nice double row of stitching on the right side of the hem and a zig zag stitch underneath. This creates some built-in stretch, so stretching while sewing is not necessary.

If you’re still anxious about working with knits, there are some great books out there. I’ve looked through the Sew U Home Stretch: Built By Wendy Guide to Sewing Knit Fabrics and it seems like a solid guide for anyone unsure about venturing into the wonderful world of knits. I haven’t looked at it, but the book Sewing with Knits, published by Taunton Press (who also publishes the fabulous Threads Magazine and Sew Stylish) has received some rave reviews as well.

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