I decided to take advantage of my “Staycation” this week to catch up on the sewing that I’ve wanted to work on. If you haven’t been able to tell, my sewing momentum has been lacking in the past couple of months, partially because of work craziness and also because winter is getting to me and I want to make cute clothes for warm weather, not heavy bulky stuff. I churned out a dress this week from my faux Missoni fabric, gave up on my Beignet (more details on that later), and made a toile (sounds so much fancier than muslin) for a Jasimine blouse. And since I had the muslin fabric out, I cut out a pair of Clover pants because gosh darnnit, 2013 will be the year that I get over my fear of pants and freaking make a pair already.
So here’s the results from Round 1:
Since the waist and hip measurements for a size 6 are spot on what I measure, and the Ginger skirt I made last year fit perfectly, I cut out a size 6 and crossed my fingers that everything would turn out as good as humanly possible. I must say, I’m pretty pleased with how the first muslin turned out since it wasn’t as awful in fit as I thought it would be. The waist is a perfect fit and comfortable, but I noticed that I have some bunching around the crotch area. Hmm. I’d like it to be as smooth as possible, but I don’t want to take so much away that I can’t sit comfortably.
Here’s the back:
When analyzing pull/drape lines in pants, the terms “smile” and “frown” are used since you’re looking for lines shaped just like, well, smiles and frowns. Smiles denote that more fabric is needed in an area and frowns mean that there’s too much fabric and it needs to be reduced. Well, I’ve got a frown-y backside wth too much fabric going on, affectionately referred to as a “Flat Derriere.” Now this isn’t news to me, I know I have, ahem, such a backside – I’m all straight lines and no curves. And since I’ve run into this problem before with pants, it’ll be good to figure out how to eliminate that problem for future pants patterns. Also, the legs are crazy baggy on me and nowhere near as fitted as they should be, like on Sarai.
So here’s what I’ve determined I need to do so far:
- Flat rear adjustment: I’ve seen a couple of different techniques online on how to do this and I also looked through some of my Sew Stylish and Threads magazines as well as some of my fitting books. I have a some ideas on what to do.
- Shorten the torso: I’m thinking that may be what’s causing the excess fabric in the front and the back? Maybe it’s just the crotch depth that’s too big.
- Thin leg adjustment: seems pretty simple, but it’d be the last alteration I do after I get my butt figured out. Just tapering in the leg from the crotch seam.
Realistically, I don’t think I’ll have these pants fitted/made by the time I go back to work next week. But it’s nice to have the time to spend on a project this involved.
Do you have any tips on fitting pants? I’d love to hear them!